
Almost ready for the Xmas Arts Market now and since I’m going to be selling a range of new small prints that I’ve been working on I thought it would be a good idea to share my thoughts on how to frame them. Personally I think they look great float mounted. I meant to take a photo of one that I framed this way but erm, I forgot, and now it’s hanging in the Winter Exhibition at Edinburgh Printmakers. Oops.
So anyway, here’s a (relatively) simple way to float mount one of my small prints (this example is for the 20cmx20cm prints, so adjust sizes for the 20cmx18cm ones!).
I usually recommend that my prints are framed by a professional framer, however, when they’re this small I don’t think it’s a bad idea at all to use an inexpensive frame, and the one I’ve used for these in the past is just over £6 from Ikea.
You will need:
Ikea box frame (Ribba 23cmx23cm http://www.ikea.com/gb/en/catalog/products/80078269)
Piece of 5mm thick foamboard cut slightly (about 1cm all round) smaller than the print to be mounted.
Lightweight archival mounting tape (such as Filmoplast)
Two 2.2cm x 23cm strips of 5mm thick foamboard
Two 2.2cm x 22cm strips of 5mm thick foamboard
Strong masking tape
Strong framing tape
(All of the above – apart from the frame which is of course from Ikea! – should be available from good art supply shops)
A pair of plyers
1. Remove the back of the frame by bending back the metal pins that keep the backing board in place and removing the board and the mount that come with the frame.
2. Set aside the paper that’s included.
3. Attach archival tape to the back of the print in a T-hinge method as below (note – the image only shows tape at the top edge but you’ll need to do the same at the bottom edge too) :

4. Place the foamboard (the piece cut to just smaller than the print) squarely (you can make small pencil marks on the back of the print before attaching the tape if you like to make sure it’s straight) on the back of the print and press firmly but carefully to make sure the tape is secured.
5. Measure the aperture in the window mount that’s included with the frame. Now replicate the size of the aperture in pencil on the back of the foamboard, measuring from the sides to make sure it’s centered.
6. Using the same method as before, attach archival tape to the back of the foamboard, making sure the adhesive bits that are facing outwards are OUTSIDE the lines of the aperture that you drew.
7. Place the window mount on the BACK of the foamboard (ie: the print is still face down on the table) so that the aperture lines up with the one you drew in pencil.
8. Press the window mount down onto the foamboard so it sticks and then secure with strong masking tape, using the aperture as access to the foamboard below (ie: the tape should overlap the window mount aperture, onto the foamboard so you end up with a square of masking tape in the middle).
9. Flip over to make sure the print is aligned in the centre of the mount board (if it’s not, you can always adjust it by removing the masking tape and carefully slitting the archival tape with a craft knife and re-doing it).
10. Take the frame and, using the plyers, carefully remove the metal pins.
11. With the frame still face down and the glass in place, insert the long strips of foamboard on edge directly against the internal sides of the frame and push down so that they fit snuggly into the frame and there are no gaps (you will be using the two longer ones opposite each other).
12. Place your mounted print face down into the frame. The strips of foamboard should now act as a ledge so that the print sits to the back of the frame. Hold it up with your fingers keeping it in place and check it looks ok.
13. Place the frame back down on the table again face down and lay the backing board into the frame against the mount. The backing board should lie almost flush with the frame now.
14. (If you want to you can try to re-insert the metal pins at this point but be warned it is not easy!) Using the strong framers tape, secure the backing board to the edge of the frame. The edge of the tape should not overlap the sides of the frame, but should be in line with it, so that the majority of the tape sits on the backing board. Do this around each edge so they are all covered and no dust can get in. You can use your fingers to press the tape into any corners so that it’s well stuck down.
15. Your float mounted print is ready to hang! You can use the hanging kit included with the frame or attach mirror plates to the back of the frame.
Disclaimer: This is just my method for float mounting using this specific frame. There are other resources on the internet that you may want to consult if you’re using a different kind of frame or if you want to be more professional about it (ie: you may want to use the Japanese rice paper method of hinge mounting). If you’re unsure then please do use a professional framer.
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