For most of this month I’ve been off travelling around Europe, visiting friends and making new ones, as well as spending a bit of time on my own. I packed a lot in; Granada, Barcelona, Verona, Athens, Berlin and Budapest – and consequently my senses have been overwhelmed with sights and sounds. I saw some of the most amazing art and architecture and have returned full of inspiration and appreciation.
In Granada of course I visited the Alhambra and it completely blew me away. I don’t often describe things as ‘magical’ but it really was. It was one of those places where I just wanted everyone to go away so that I could listen to it – because the sounds of it when all the tourists are gone must be beautiful, and I imagine the sight of it must be even more incredible in turn. If it seems magical during the day with hundreds of people milling around snapping away with cameras, then what must it be like at night, when the little cats and other animals that inhabit the area prowl around undisturbed? The collection of Spanish art that’s housed there is wonderful, as was the temporary Matisse exhibition that was showing – I especially loved it as there were a lot of works on paper that I’d never seen before. It focused mainly on the inspiration that he drew from his time in Granada and the influence on his work of Moorish art and architecture.
In Barcelona I was short of time – I was en route to Italy so I had decided to save my ‘real’ trip to Barcelona for another time when I could really do it justice. In the day that I spent there though I managed to see Park Guell, la Sagrada Familia and La Pedrera (or Casa Milà). Despite being severely sleep deprived after doing all of this straight off the overnight train from Granada (seat only, no cabin, cheap but not ideal!) I still managed to thoroughly enjoy my day and what I saw and in some ways it added to the surreality of it all. I fell instantly in love with this city and I can’t wait to go back. I very deliberately did not go to any of the art museums, as I want to be able to enjoy them with no time constraints.
Next stop was Verona, which is really lovely. The buildings were more monumental than I had expected somehow, and the whole place far more impressive than the rather quaint idea that I had of it. Because the entire city is a UNESCO world heritage site it’s incredibly well cared for and really quite a feast for the eyes with frescos adorning many of the even residential buildings – pretty much every street has something worth seeing on it. Most of the main sites of interest, such as the Arena, the Roman theatre and the Basilica di San Zeno I saw only from the outside, but I did visit the Castelvecchio and the museum therein which contains an enormous amount of religious art, and also some interesting Flemish works.
After that I was off to Athens, where it was a lovely 21C – which I believe was unusual for November; I suddenly felt very much like I was really on holiday. I had been before many years ago but was very happy to have another visit to the Acropolis and the Ancient Agora, as well as the new Acropolis Museum which is truly impressive. A walk around the flea markets was a real treat as I hadn’t been able to do this the last time I was there. Next time I really must go with a big empty suitcase so that I can fill it with weird and wonderful objects.
Next I had a very brief stop in Berlin, which I must point out I have visited before and absolutely love, but this time it was really just one evening, and it was raining so hard I decided only to venture out as far as it took me to get food. In the morning before I went to the airport though I had the loveliest leisurely breakfast at cafe Zur Rose on Weinbergsweg. If you’re in Berlin you must go there! It’s delightful.
The last stop on my travels was Budapest. This was my third visit there and so I feel a little bit like I’m getting to know it now. I did less touristy things this time and got to integrate a bit more with local life – on the first evening I went to the Stylewalker Night, which is basically a kind of showcase for designers and artists where selected shops stay open until midnight and offer little treats like mulled wine and cakes. You get a map of the participating venues and can collect stickers along the way that give you a discount at the end in any of the shops. I thought this was a great idea and some of the shops had really gone to a lot of effort; along the way we got to see one clothes designer’s workshop and in another shop was an exhibition that was both a lot of fun and very inventive where a food design collective going by the name of mástészta had created a model of Budapest using breads, pastries and other foodstuffs, including colourful icing – the best part was getting to create your very own mini model of your own city, which they had set aside an area and materials for! Agnes from the group very kindly sent me some info and images from the event afterwards which you can see below, including my own rather pathetic attempt at Edinburgh Castle and Princes Street! Agnes told me “Our special field of interest is focused on food design, we research, analyse and define/redefine the connection between food and design, try to put the food in a new context, and show up new ways of consuming and new eating situations. Our event at the INSITU was designed for the Stylewalker Night, which is a guided design tour in the design district of Budapest. Our topic was reflecting to the night, our aim was to emphasize the Urban style.”



Images from mástészta installation at INSITU, Stylewalker Night, Budapest © mástészta 2010
To round off two weeks of full on art and culture consumption I visited the ‘Nuda Veritas’ exhibition at the Szepmuveszeti Muzeum featuring mostly works by Klimt along with many other artists that formed part of the Vienna Secession. I thought this was a truly remarkable exhibition – very well put together and featuring an absolute wealth of material including, once again to my delight, a great many works on paper. To see so many incredible lithographs, woodcuts and etchings in one place was a rare treat for me.
Recent Comments